Saturday, March 15, 2008

First Impressions of Malaysia


Crossing the border from Thailand into Malaysia, one can spot immediate differences. Highways have barriers. Motorbike drivers uni formally wear helmets. Power lines appear modern and efficient. There are ballparks, playgrounds, toll-booths, and roadside landscaping. This is not the third world.
Malaysia is a unique and young country. Its majority population is a mix of immigrants from southern Thailand, northern Indonesia, China and India. A small minority of aboriginal Malaysian's, or Orang Asli (Original People) as they are called, also still exist here. However they are vastly outnumbered.
Islam is the dominant religion, and one can see this reflected everywhere throughout the country. The head scarf worn by Muslim women is more commonly seen here than blue-jeans and it's not unusual to see fast food restaurants advertise themselves as halal, meaning that their menu strictly adheres to all requirements of the Muslim diet. Large, spectacular Mosque's exist in nearly every city. Yet Islam is only one of the many religions found here. Hindu, Buddhism, Christianity, and even Animism are actively practiced as well. Though Islam is recognized as the state religion, it is important to note that freedom of religion is still assured by law.
With all of the diversity that is found here, Malaysia seems to be experiencing a bit of an identity crisis; similar perhaps to the one the United States must have suffered during its influx of immigrants during the 1800's. With all three of Malaysia's dominant cultures sharing the same space, but not the same cultural or religious traditions, what does it mean to be Malaysian?
The government here has been working hard at trying to create a sense of national identity. Bhasa Malayu, a language similar to that of Indonesia has been taught in public schools for several generations now, and has been widely adopted by all as the official language. Less successful, though gaining some recent traction, has been the movement to adopt Islamic law.

On the surface this odd Asian melting pot seems to be working. The various groups appear to interact easily and to even enjoy the diversity of their community. Indians can be seen passionately talking politics with their Chinese countrymen, while indigenous Muslim women in head scarfs share tea with red-dotted Hindi mothers. The youth of Malaysia especially seem to mix together with ease, each successive generation erasing barriers bit by bit.
But to characterize this nation as some kind of multicultural paradise would be to deny the complexity of the real situation. Things are further complicated by the large economic inequity that exists here, often found along racial lines. The Chinese are seen as the dominant economic force, and indigenous Malays often fear being left behind. Since 1970 law has required that 30% of corporate wealth be owned by indigenous Malays, and though this policy has helped to close the economic gap, it has understandably been met with fierce resistance from the other members of Malaysian society.
To the outsider though, the varying cultural landscape of Malaysia creates a fun and fascinating place to visit. You can have Thai noodle soup for breakfast, Indian curry for lunch, and Chinese Dim Sum for dinner. Cinemas play a variety of films from Hollywood, Bollywood, Hong Kong, and China. And the fingerprints of European colonialism can be found everywhere, from the Austrian style chalet apartment buildings to the rich roasted coffee of the local Kafe's.
It's a clean, comfortable, and affluent pocket of southeast Asia. The kind of which I had no idea existed. Overall, I'm incredibly impressed, and I can't wait to see more of what it has to offer.

3 comments:

Kelly Merrill said...

Taking a year long vacation is making more sense, you sound less like a tourist and more like an explorer, I hope you have a whip and a cute monkey that steals for you.

Reeve Baily said...

Great writing Joe, keep it coming...

Raj Bedi said...

Hi Joe,
It is an excellent piece of candid travel writing by a non-Malaysian. It is indeed, an eye-opener about the present state of Malaysia, inspiring foreigners to come in hordes to visit Malaysia.

Raj