Mention the country of Myanmar to the average westerner and you're likely to be greeted by blank stares, and the inevitable "Where's that?" This nearly forgotten Southeast Asian nation is better known to the west by its former colonial title of Burma.
The history of Myanmar can outlined by a long stretch of failed occupations by crumbling empires. The Mongolian hordes of Kublai Khan, the colonial British, and the Axis army of Japan have all held these people within their grasp at alternate times. And sadly, to this day, this trend of tyranny and occupation still shows no sign of ending.
Since 1989 Myanmar has been ruled by a military junta with one of the worlds worst records regarding human rights. For the last twenty years the nations democratically elected leader Aung San Suu Kyi has been held captive in her home a mere few miles from the hotel in which I write these words. And things have only gotten worse as of late. In 2007 the military publicly slaughtered a group of demonstrators lead by Buddhist monks who dared to protest the suspension of government oil subsidies that had led to rising gas prices. Then in 2008 when cyclone Nargis killed tens of thousands in the region, the country's leaders refused to allow western aid groups inside the borders, worsening a situation that eventually led top the deaths of at least 140,00 people.
But in the streets of Yangon and Mandalay you could be forgiven for being blind to the current plight of the Burmese people. Life goes on here as usual, though an eerie veil of Orwellian calm haunts many interactions. In Myanmar, it's important to read between the lines, to hear not only what is said, but what is implied in conversations. People will frequently silence or censor themselves. Like the monk who mid-sentence shuffled away from us whispering, "In my country, many spies everywhere." Or the tour guide who, while explaining the vast amounts of teak the government clear cut and sold overseas, joked "Myanmar is a rich country, but..."
It is for these reasons that when one travels to Myanmar, it must be done mindfully. With awareness of the situation at hand, and with great care to what one says, how loud you say it, and where you spend your money.
Most large restaurants hotels here are owned by high government officials. Money spent in these places does nothing to help the local people, and only serves to bolster the regime that suppresses them. Sadly it is impossible to travel this country without monetarily supporting the government in some way. The cost of your visa goes straight into their coffers, and even locally owned hotels with no government ties are charged a 12% tax. Fairly, for this reason many people choose to simply pass on visiting Myanmar. But doing so hurts the countless individuals who depend on tourism for their livelihood, and reinforces the peoples fears that the rest of the world has forgotten about them. The general consensus from folks that we talked to was that they desperately desire an increase in the number of travelers to their country.
I'm not going to lie to you. Some amount of the enjoyment I derived from traveling here was related to how few people currently come. On an average day we would see less than a dozen other tourists, and most of these would be during breakfast at our guest house.
Amenities are sparse, but this lends to the romance. Riding down a rough dirt road by horse drawn carriage to explore ancient temples. Chatting with a fourth generation puppeteer after a private evening performance of his art. Being awakened at dawn by the gentle hum of chanting monks after spending the night in a remote Buddhist monastery. Unique and memorable adventures abound here.
Travel was not easy, but frequently the experiences were more rewarding than in other places. This is not Thailand, or Malaysia. This is not Asia-light. It can be frustrating, awkward, and uncomfortable. You may be speechless at the stories people share, and the desperation on hand here is often heartbreaking. But Myanmar is also magical, captivating, encouraging, and delightful. The people here will surprise you with their kindness, resilience, and generosity. They are among the friendliest, and most genuine people I've encountered in all my travels. For all these reasons I would encourage adventurous, mindful travelers to give the country a chance. Your efforts will be rewarded.
