Petra, Jordan

It is a hot, dry day, but the high canyon that surrounds me provides much needed shade, and with it relief from the sun. Light plays off the tops of the sandstone walls revealing red, brown, and white rock, richly layered like strips of fatty bacon. Against the left wall is a channel deeply carved into the rock that once served as an ancient water conduit. I round a corner finding a bright flood of light against a far wall where the canyon opens up into a wider path. Against this wall, no, on this wall, part of it, are the pillars and peaked rooftops of a structure so ancient that it pre-dates the Bible...

There is still much debate among historians about when the city of Petra was first established, and in fact no method has yet been found to determine it's exact age. What is known however is that the settlement was built by the Nabataeans before the time of Christ. These desert dwellers chose this site for their capital both because of it's position along the Middle East caravan trade route, and for it's ease of defense since it could only be approached via narrow canyon routes.

The settlement reached peak importance around the first century, eventually falling under Roman rule (like just about everything else back then). In the year 363 AD, the city was ravaged by a powerful earthquake that destroyed many of the buildings and ruined the complex series of dams and water channels that made life here in the hot desert climate possible. After this Petra was largely abandoned. It became a tourist attraction after western explorers were introduced to it in the early 1800's, and today enjoys status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Petra is the number one tourist attraction in the Kingdom of Jordan, and is arguably the single most impressive archaeological site in the entire Middle East.

The structure of Al Khazneh (the Treasury) reveals itself to visitors slowly, a dramatic crescendo to the 2km long walk through the sandstone canyon known as the Siq. This is an ancient city planners equivalent to shock and awe. The enormous structure is carved deep into the coloured cliff side impressing all who stand before it to ponder the ingenuity of it's architects.

Al Khazneh is a well known iconic image. It's exterior was used as the set for the resting place of the Holy Grail in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and photograph's of it have been featured in countless coffee table books. But like the temples of Angkor, Petra is more than just a single monument- it is a city of them. Connected in this case by a footpath that climbs along cliff sides and across desert plains. Visitors spend their days here absorbed in a total package of atmosphere. The mystery of these tombs and temples coupled with the beauty of the surrounding landscape create an experience that is not just archaeological, but geological as well. Exploring this site is very literally, a walk in the park.

The people of Jordan also make Petra worth a visit. Unlike their Egyptian neighbors, the Jordanians are friendly, welcoming, and make visiting their country comparatively hassle-free. I struck up a conversation with a merchant on the site, enquiring about the cost a book he sold. He quoted me a fair price, and made no moves to try to force me into the sale. When I said I'd think about it, he smiled and told me he'd be there all day and that if I decided I wanted to make a purchase I could come back later. Though this may seem unremarkable, after enduring five weeks of aggressive Egyptian salesman I was honestly taken aback by this simple, polite interaction.

It takes at least one long, full day to explore the bulk of this site, and there is extensive walking and climbing involved. But perseverance is rewarded if one completes the climb to the Monastery and the rock cut tombs that have been dubbed “the High Places.” It takes around two hours from the entrance to reach this point but the Monastery itself is the largest and one of the most impressive of all of Petra's structures. It looks as if it was built by giants. While there we were treated to an impromptu folk concert by a local Arab who had climbed all the way up the path to play his oud and take advantage of the natural acoustics inside this mammoth structure.

There are also dramatic views from the high cliff sides near the Monastery where one can sit under tents and sip an ice cold drink or smoke apple flavored tobacco from a sheesha pipe, enjoy pleasant conversation with locals, or just get lost while staring across the vast expanse of Jordan's rocky desert.

By the end of the day we were thirsty and tired, our energy sapped away by the long hike and intense heat. The sun had begun to set as we made our decent and the early evening was mercifully cool. There were few tourists still around, and by this time even the merchants had abandoned their posts. As we made our way back, I paused for one last look at the Treasury building, once again impressed by its enduring classic design. They just don't build them like this anymore.